How to Get Rid of Carpet Beetles

Getting rid of carpet beetles comes down to finding what the larvae are eating and removing it. The source is often one neglected item or spot: a wool rug, a box of stored sweaters, pet hair under furniture, lint in a floor vent, dead insects in a light fixture or an old bird nest in the attic. Once the source is gone, thorough vacuuming, laundering, and freezing or heat for items that cannot be washed clear out the rest. Insecticides are a minor supplement.

Here is how to work through it.

Confirm it is carpet beetles

Small, rounded beetles on windowsills are often adult carpet beetles. Adults feed on pollen outdoors and do not damage fabrics. The damage comes from the larvae: small, bristly, often banded grubs that shed their skins as they grow. Finding those cast skins is one of the best clues.

Fabric damage is not always from carpet beetles. UK Entomology points out that holes blamed on clothes moths are sometimes caused by carpet beetles, and the two pests are managed in much the same way. Carpet beetle larvae and their skins are also sometimes mistaken for bed bugs. Our carpet beetle vs bed bug comparison helps sort that out, and the carpet beetles hub covers the common species. Some carpet beetle species also infest dry foods, so if you find larvae in the pantry, see pantry pests.

Find the source

University of Kentucky Entomology notes that carpet beetle larvae feed on animal-based materials, including wool, fur, felt, silk, feathers and leather, and on the lint, hair and debris that collect in hidden places. Check these spots:

• Stored clothing and textiles. Look in seams, folds, cuffs and collars of wool and fur items, especially ones that have not been worn or cleaned in a while.
• Rugs and carpet. Look under furniture and along edges. UK Entomology suggests lifting the edge of wall-to-wall carpet with needle-nose pliers to check underneath.
• Upholstered furniture. Check underneath and inside cushions, particularly pieces filled with wool, feathers or down.
• Vents and ducts. Floor registers and cold-air returns collect lint and pet hair.
• Pet areas. Pet beds, grooming spots and corners where hair builds up.
• Dead insects. Light fixtures, window frames and attics where flies, lady beetles and other insects die and dry out.
• Nests. Bird, rodent, bee or wasp nests in attics, chimneys, eaves or wall voids can support large populations. UC IPM lists these as common sources.
• Dry goods. Some species feed on cereal, pet food or bird seed, including stashes hidden by rodents.

Expect to find more than one source in a long-running infestation. Glue traps placed along baseboards and in closets can help show where activity is concentrated.

Vacuum thoroughly

Vacuuming removes larvae, eggs, adults and the hair and lint they feed on. Focus on:

• Carpet edges, along baseboards and under furniture
• Closet floors and shelves
• Upholstered furniture, including under cushions
• Floor vents and the inside of registers
• Window sills and light fixtures where dead insects collect

UC IPM notes that a vacuum bag can still contain live insects, so empty or discard it promptly, sealed in a plastic bag. Repeat vacuuming regularly for several weeks, since eggs and hidden larvae can keep turning up.

Launder and dry clean

UC IPM calls hot-water laundering or dry cleaning the most important control method for washable fabrics, since it kills all life stages. UK Entomology adds that the heat of a clothes dryer also kills eggs and larvae. Clean infested items and anything susceptible stored near them.

Bag heavily infested items before carrying them through the house, and bag any items you decide to discard.

Freezing or heating items

Some items cannot be washed or dry cleaned, such as wool blankets with special care needs, taxidermy, decor, felt hats or small rugs. Cold or heat can treat them.

Freezing

UK Entomology says items should be held at 0°F (-18°C) or below for at least one week. A freezer that reaches -20°F (-29°C) can kill all life stages within 72 hours. Their advice:

• Seal items in plastic bags or wrap them in polyethylene first to limit condensation.
• After freezing, let items warm to room temperature, about 24 hours, before unwrapping.
• Check the temperature with a thermometer, since many home freezers run warmer than you might expect.

Heat

UC IPM describes heating items to at least 120°F (49°C) for at least 30 minutes. Many household items cannot tolerate heat safely, and heat can damage glues, finishes and delicate fibers. Check whether an item can handle cold or heat before you treat it, and for heirlooms or irreplaceable textiles, ask a conservator.

Store susceptible items properly

Prevention is mostly about storage. Based on UK Entomology and UC IPM guidance:

• Clean wool, fur, silk and other animal-fiber items before storing them. Body oils and food stains attract larvae.
• Store items in tight-fitting plastic bags, bins or sealed chests.
• Do not count on cedar. UK Entomology notes that cedar closets and chests are seldom effective, and UC IPM points out that cedar oil fades with age, so a tight container matters more than the wood.
• Air and brush stored woolens and furs at least once a year.

Moth crystals and balls (naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene) are pesticides. If you use them, follow the label, use them only in sealed containers and keep them away from children, pets and food.

Monitor for a return

Carpet beetles can return slowly, and a small population can build for months before damage shows. A few low-effort habits catch them early:

• Leave glue traps along baseboards and inside closets and storage areas, and check them every few weeks. UK Entomology notes these traps help detect infestations early.
• Look for cast larval skins when you vacuum under furniture and along edges.
• Inspect stored woolens and furs each season when you rotate clothing.
• Keep a short note of where you found larvae or skins, so you can tell whether the problem is shrinking or moving.

If clothes moths are also present, pheromone traps made for clothes moths can help track them. UK Entomology notes that these lures are species specific and do not attract carpet beetles.

Targeted treatments

Insecticides are a supplement to cleaning, not a replacement. UK Entomology suggests that if treatment is needed, use products labeled for fabric pests or carpet beetles and apply them only to targeted spots such as carpet edges, the junction of walls and floors, under furniture and closet floors. Do not apply insecticides to clothing or bedding.

Read and follow the label every time. The EPA notes that using a product in a way that conflicts with its label violates federal law, and the label lists where the product can be used and what precautions to take. Store any leftover product in its original container, locked away from children and pets.

Keep adults out

Adult carpet beetles feed on pollen outdoors. UC IPM notes they often come in on cut flowers or through gaps in screens, doors and vents.

• Repair window screens and seal gaps around doors and vents.
• Shake out or inspect cut flowers before bringing them inside.
• Remove old bird and wasp nests from eaves and attics, and keep birds and rodents out of attics and chimneys.
• Keep up regular vacuuming of hidden areas.

When to bring in a professional

Most carpet beetle problems are a cleaning project rather than a pest-control job. A professional is worth considering when:

• Larvae keep appearing after several weeks of thorough cleaning and you cannot find the source
• The source seems to be inside a wall void, attic, chimney or ductwork you cannot safely reach
• An infestation is inside stuffed furniture, mattresses or other items you cannot wash, freeze or heat. UC IPM notes these may need fumigation by a licensed operator, which does not prevent reinfestation afterward.
• Collections such as taxidermy, antique textiles or museum-type items, are affected

A professional inspection should identify the source and explain where products, if any, will be applied. Ask whether the company has experience with fabric pests, and for heirlooms, ask a textile conservator before any treatment. For vetting tips, see when to call a pest control professional.